The painter who took a quixotic view of Spain
Ignacio Zuloaga was once as celebrated as Sorolla, but the artist’s searching paintings soon fell out of favour after his death
Crowning glories – a new home for the Spanish royal collection
After 17 years of construction, the Gallery of the Royal Collections in Madrid is open at last – and ready to tell a triumphalist tale
London has its own Dracula’s castle – and a stake is about to be driven through its heart